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Sidebar -- "Salsa Without Tears", October 1996
FRESH HABANERO
CHILES
Wow! The aromatic of a fresh raw habanero
-- I'm talking about an
orange, ripe one -- smells like passion fruit or guavas, apricots and orange
blossoms, all mixed up with green herbs and a piquancy your nose can detect.
All the flowers and fruit come through in the taste as well, along with
sweetness and a tangerine tang -- and a glorious heat that overtakes the front
two-thirds of your mouth and heightens your senses.
These are not Scotch bonnet peppers, the latter being more
aggressively flavored (though noticeably smaller) and equally hot. The related
Scotch bonnet looks different, too, usually smaller and sunken at the shoulder
with a stem that rises form a nipple-shaped bump.
A final note about habaneros: we use so little of them in each dish that I
recommend buying a handful when you find them and storing them whole in the
freezer up to 3 months. Frozen ones slice in half easily and taste as good to
me as fresh ones in cooked sauces and even in fresh salsas, where there's so
little chile that the textural difference is hard to notice.
Stats: An average habanero ranges from light green to bright orange, is
about 1/3 ounce, about 1 1/2 inches long by 1 inch wide at the squared-off but
not sunken shoulder, the lantern-shaped body quickly tapering to a point just
before the end; almost all will be deeply dimpled and the points of some will
look like a nipple.
Copyright © 1996 by Rick Bayless. All rights
reserved.
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